TDWine

Texas Wine Report Card

Last weekend Andrea and I headed off to the Texas Hill Country for the 19th Annual Fredericksburg Food & Wine Festival. We had a fabulous time and the Fredericksburg Chamber of Commerce couldn’t have asked for better weather. Highs in the upper 60′s to lower 70′s with low humidity. A perfect ‘cool’ Texas Fall weekend.

The main event for the festival was the Patron’s Brunch at Marketplatz in the center of downtown. We had some excellent food and several good wines. Below I’ve subjectively provided grades both for my overall impression of Texas Wine as well as individual grades for wineries and their wines.

Criteria:

• Winery Property: ambiance, views, architecture, landscaping, etc.
• Tasting Operations: ability to handle crowds, approach to tastings, layout, adequate staffing
• Wines: Overall impression of portfolio, sight, nose, palate
• Knowledge of Staff: understanding of viticulture, enology, pairing recommendations, etc.
• Staff Service: welcoming, friendly, courteous, attentive, common sense, combined with knowledge

While I would prefer visiting properties that aren’t geared up for the general public, and while it’s more enjoyable to have a one-on-one tasting with a winemaker, for most folks visiting wineries the experience is based on the property and tasting operations. From there it’s up to the staff and the wines to round out impressions. This is what I tried to keep in mind in producing this report card and as I mentioned above, these results are subjective.

Overall we had a successful trip. We’ll definitely go back to the beautifull Texas Hill Country and will track progess of the wines. I’m entertaining purchasing land in the future and giving it a whirl. One of the most interesting facts at all the wineries we visited was fruit source. Each time I asked, “where’s your fruit sourced?” the resounding answer was, “High Plains Texas near Lubbock.” The High Plains is the best grape growing region in Texas. Basically, most of the grapes that grow in the Hill Country do not stack up, yet. More experimentation with soils and varietals along with knowledge sharing will help alleviate that.

Overall Texas Wine Report Card: B

• Winery Properties: B+
• Tasting Operations: B+
• Wines: B
• Knowledge of Staff: B-
• Staff Service: B

• Best White – Becker Chardonnay: B+
• Best Red – Mandola Zinfandel: B+

• 1st Place Winery – Mandola Winery, Driftwood, Texas: A-
• 2nd Place Winery –  Becker Vineyards, Stonewall, Texas: B+
• 3rd Place Winery – Torre Di Pietra, Fredericksburg, Texas: C+
• Last Place Winery – Grape Creek Vineyard, Fredericksburg, Texas: C-

We sampled 40 to 50 wines between the Patron Brunch and 4 individual winery visits. Along with the wines, after taking into consideration my impressions of the wineries themselves, my overall grade for the Texas Wine Industry at this time is a solid B. Because there were so many wines I did not have enough time to fully evaluate them according to the Guild of Sommeliers blind tasting format, but I was able to form an overall impression.

Best Overall Winery and Wines

Mandola Winery, Driftwood, Texas: A-

• Winery Property: A
• Tasting Operations: B+
• Wines: B+
• Knowledge of Staff: B
• Staff Service: A

The Mandola Estate Winery is a little slice of Italy in the Texas Hill Country. The grounds were inviting, relaxing, and a perfect venue for corporate or family events. We did not have time to visit their restaurant. With Damien Mandola’s 30+ years in the restaurant business I’d expect nothing but greatness. The tasting room was not that busy when we visited late Friday afternoon so we received attentive service from the staff. I would like to visit again on a busy Saturday to see if they’re able to keep up. Overall we liked there wines the best.

2nd Place Winery and Wines

Becker Vineyards, Stonewall, Texas: B+

• Winery Property: B+
• Tasting Operations: B+
• Wines: B
• Knowledge of Staff: B+
• Staff Service: A

Becker is a long-time player in the Texas wine business so we expected great things. Though our favorite white was their Chardonnay, we weren’t that impressed with the reds. The tasting attendant who waited on us was a part-time employee who’s also a consultant in the wine business and had spent many vintages in Northern California. Because of this he was very knowledgeable hence the highest ‘Knowledge of Staff’ grade out of all the wineries. Overall the property was nice with plenty of room and as the busiest winery we visited, we didn’t get the ‘Disney’ effect that we received at other wineries. It was a well run operation.

3rd Place Winery and Wines

Torre Di Pietra, Fredericksburg, Texas: C+

• Winery Property: B-
• Tasting Operations: C+
• Wines: C
• Knowledge of Staff: C
• Staff Service: B

Torre Di Pietra wines rated lowest on our list. The property was nice and they had live music and an outdoor covered dance floor where, you guessed it, folks were Texas Two-Steppin’. Good stuff. Though the service staff was attentive and courteous, they kept pouring water in my glass between tastings (even between different reds). When water is poured in a wine glass unless you completely dry it out with a cloth, you’re basically diluting the wines. Big pet peeve. Maybe this affected the taste though not as much as what I deemed plain quality issues.

Last Place Winery and Wines

Grape Creek Vineyard, Fredericksburg, Texas: C-

• Winery Property: A-
• Tasting Operations: C
• Wines: B-
• Knowledge of Staff: C-
• Staff Service:  D (1st visit C, 2nd visit F – see below for detail)

Then there’s Grape Creek. Behind Mandola my favorite property. It has a Tuscan feel, they had live music, and the view from the back veranda under the oak trees and out to the vineyards reminded me of Andretti winery in Napa. That’s where any similarities ended. They were busy. But to make matters worse, they lined up everyone like cattle as you entered, took your money at the door, handed you glasses, and pushed you down the line to taste their lower line ‘white’ labels.

The staff was courteous, but not very knowledgeable on the wines. Once you were done with the white labels you went back to their normal tasting room to taste their ‘black’ labels. Our attendant was efficient but their information delivery seemed too rehearsed. The wines are OK. This was our first visit.

Late in the day we headed back over to Grape Creek because we wanted to sit on their veranda and enjoy a glass of wine under the oak trees and watch the sunset. Well, we got their about 5:45pm and they closed at 6:00pm. I had Andrea scope out and save us a seat with a great view. By the time I made it back to the tasting room to get us glasses of wine, the hurried tasting room manager looked down at her watch and said, “I’m sorry, it’s 10 minutes ’til six so we can’t serve you a glass.” I asked if I could purchase a bottle. The answer was, “yes, but you have to take it with you.” In other words, leave our property and go find another place to enjoy the sunset.

Seriously? I understand they need to wrap things up, but on the veranda was some 40 other people with varying degrees of full glasses and half-full bottles enjoying the beautiful end to a beautiful day. I highly doubt they finished up by 6:00pm. Seeing all the other folks enjoying themselves and being pissed about the poor service was my last impression as we walked back to the car. Sorry Grape Creek, you get an F for service. Last impressions last a long time.

Winery Links:

• Mandola Estate Winery
• Becker Vineyards
• Torre Di Pietra
• Grape Creek Vineyards

NB: I received absolutely NO FREE SAMPLES nor special treatment as a part-time wine professional; i.e. impressions are unbiased (put that in your pipe and smoke it FTC).

Off to the Hill Country

My wife Andrea and I are off to the Texas Hill Country this weekend to check out the Fredericksburg Food & Wine Festival. Born and raised in Texas, I admit I’ve only tasted a few Texas wines over the years. Honestly most have not been that great.

Over the past few years I’ve heard a little buzz that some Texas producers are getting better at their game though I haven’t paid much attention. A few years back Wine Spectator did a feature issue on the Texas wine industry. I recall a quote that recommended investment equating the maturity of the Texas wine industry now to that of California in the 70′s. Not that Texas can rival the best growing regions in CA, but imagine investing in large plots of the Russian River Valley in the early 70′s.

Back in August during my Inrto level Sommelier course, Master Sommelier and fellow Texan Guy Stout mentioned that Texas was in need of 10,000 additional acres of vineyards to keep up with current demand. Definitely sounds like an investment opportunity. He took the plunge a few years ago and has 3 acres of Syrah in Blanco. I understand this year’s harvest was crushed at the Mandola winery in Dripping Springs.

Regarding quality, with all the producers in Texas I’d find it hard to believe that no diamonds in the ruff exist. I also have to give Texas a break when comparing them to regions around the world. Think about all the plonk that exists from table wines in Italy and France to the jug wines of California. Yes, the great regions have great wines, but they’ve had a head start so Texas just needs to catch up. With modern viticulture and winemaking techniques, today’s innovations will help close the gap.

So with an open mind and an open palate we’re heading to the beautiful Texas Hill Country in search of limestone diamonds. I’ll let you know what we find.

Location

Sonoma Wine Class – Oct. 21st

Hello friends…I wanted to let everyone know that tomorrow night I’ll be hosting a class from 6:30pm to 8:00pm at Vino 100 in The Woodlands on the wines of Sonoma. We will be exploring the region’s American Viticultural Areas (AVA’s) and tasting wines from several producers including:

• 2008 Kokomo Sauvignon Blanc, Dry Creek Valley
• 2007 Schug Chardonnay, Sonoma Coast
• 2007 Patz and Hall Pinot Noir, Sonoma Coast
• 2005 Pellegrini Family Blend, Sonoma County
• 2005 Tin Barn Cabernet Sauvignon, Sonoma County

This class is in a small private setting and in addition to exploring Sonoma we will introduce blind tasting tasting techniques structured from the Guild of Sommeliers. The cost is $15. There’s a few slots left so if you’re interested please call 281-419-3383 and reserve your spot. Hope to see you there!

Sonoma

Wine Tasting This Friday! Ikal 1150

Please join me this Friday at Vino 100 in The Woodlands from 5-8pm for a special Argentine wine tasting from Ikal 1150. Pronounced “ee-kahl eleven fifty”, Ikal means “poetry” at 1,150 meters above sea level. Poetry because of the special place where everything comes together to make excellent wines. Located in the highly prized district of Tupungato in Mendoza Argentina, Ikal 1150′s high elevation vineyards provide a perfect place to make great wine.

1,150 meters is approximately 3,800 feet. The highest elevation for vineyards in California is between 1,500 and 2,300 feet. At this higher elevation during cool mountain nights, vines take advantage of the day’s warmth that is captured in the sandy, rocky soils that were created by the Andes mountain glaziers. The diurnal variation between cool and warm days provides more effective acidity balance as grapes mature. As the saying goes, the best wines start in the vineyard. And these vineyards are poetic.

I’m exited by the opportunity to taste these limited production wines. We will be tasting Ikal 1150′s entire lineup which includes Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, and the varietal that in Argentina is expressed better than any other place on Earth, Malbec.

Make plans now to join me along with Jerry Ward and his wife Sandra Beltran of Ikal 1150 as they show off these wines. You’ll be glad you did.

Vino 100 – The Woodlands

2008 Ventisquero Reserva Pinot Noir

Recently I took a little virtual trip down to Chile for a wine tasting. Known mostly for their exceptional Carmenere, I tasted a nice Pinot Noir that turns out to be a great everyday value wine. It’s from the Ventisquero wines of Chile. I did a little research on Vintisquero and found a very large corporation with three separate brands including Yali, Ramirana, and Vintisquero. Around 16 wines in all representing 1,600 acres of vines.

With a production that big they certainly have the means to produce wines at many different levels. This particular wine is designated as a reserve, but they also have wines ranging from grand reserve down to everyday values. Though this was a reserve wine, due to the price point it’s certainly affordable without sacrificing quality. Does it stack up to the great Burgundies, Oregon, Sonoma Coast, or Santa Barbara Pinots? At a tenth of the price it stacks up pretty well.

Kudos to Ventisquero for bringing more affordable wines to the market to make it easier to enjoy great wines everyday without breaking the budget. Good stuff.

Tasting Notes

Sight: Clear, bright, ruby red with a hint of violet. Medium concentration and medium viscosity. Check out the color on this bad boy. Nice!

Nose: Clean, medium intensity wine with hints of strawberry and cherry with a slight hint of vanilla and spice.

Palate: Dry, medium body, confirmation of fruits and spices. Medium tannin and acidity with medium alcohol and a great ‘when’s my next taste’ finish.

• Vineyard Sources: Casablanca Valley
• Blend: 100% Pinot Noir
• Stats: Alcohol 13.5%, pH: 3.68, TA: 5.45
• Cooperage/Fermentation: 70% in French oak for 10 months
• Price: $11 – $13

Vineyard Location

New Zealand Flight Night

Just a quick post to let friends know that this evening is New Zealand flight night at Vino 100 in The Woodlands. Come pick three from the list and sample a broad array of wines from the ‘Land of the Long White Cloud’.

Known for their Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Noir, they also make great Chardonnay, Rieslings, Pinot Gris and Gewurztraminer too. Check out this great primer from Wine Spectator video.

Kia Ora!

Is This A Good Wine?

Recently I received a question about a wine from a Facebook friend which inspired this post on how to determine the quality of a good wine. My answer was simple but I also qualified it with a bit more detail.

Here’s how it went down…

Question: “Moscado – Is this wine any good? I know I know…we don’t do Wine that much, but heard it was ok…for being CHEAP!”

Answer: The best judgement of a wine is, “do you like it?” If the answer is “Yes!” then that’s all that matters. Read on for a more in depth answer.

As with any wine, the answer if it’s any good is “it depends.” Where were the grapes grown, how was the growing season for that vintage, what was the degrees brix (sugar level) and acidity level at harvest, how was it harvested (by hand?), how was it sorted and crushed, what was the fermentation process, how was it aged? There’s many other variables such as the occassion, how much do you want to spend, are you pairing it with food or drinking it on the front porch, etc. etc.

Now, by Moscado, I believe he meant Moscato, which led me to the Italian grape also known as Muscat Blanc a Petits Grains. This is the oldest and some say best variety of Muscat. Moscato di Asti of the Asti DOCG in the region of Piedmont, Italy is a good example of a sweet frizzante (less fizzy than sparkling) style wine made with this grape.

The reference to Moscado may also be a grape called Moscadello, from the Moscadello di Montalcino DOC in the region of Tuscany.  Moscadello is a cousin of Moscato and is typically used to make low alcohol sweet wines.

Many Texas wineries [my FB friend is from Austin] grow and produce Moscato into a low alcohol sweet wine. This may be what he was referring to. In the right setting such as an aperitif or to accompany dessert, if all the answers to the questions asked above are of quality (vineyard, vintage, harvest, crush, fermentation, etc.) then the wine should be good.

In addition to an apertif or dessert, another setting or pairing for sweeter, low alcohol wines is with spicy foods. Anything…Thai, Mexican, BBQ, etc. The reason for this is the higher the alcohol, the more intense the spice will seem because alcohol intensifies spicy foods. So lower alcohol wines pair better with spicy foods than higher alcohol wines. Also, the sweetness counteracts the spice to provide balance.

But after all that, the most important question is, “do you like it?” If yes, then you’re good to go.

Location – Moscato di Asti