Last night I was tasting wines at Vino 100 in The Woodlands and came across a peculiar smell that invoked a memory. Scratching my head as to how I should commit this for future tastings, I decided to post a question to the Guild of Sommeliers forum. This forum is a subscription based website with a wealth of knowledge and knowledgeable Sommeliers. A great resource for my studies.
I want to figure this one out so I hope to get some answers and I’ll share these once I get feedback. Here’s what I posted:
“I’m new to the Guild having recently passed the Intro exam. Studying for Certified I’m trying to taste as many wines as possible to calibrate my sight, nose and palate as I prepare.
Yesterday evening I tasted a Merlot from Columbia Valley and noted a peculiar smell on the nose. Having received previous advice from fellow wine colleagues that sometimes it’s best to blurt out the first thing that comes to mind when smelling or tasting, especially when it provokes a past memory, an old memory came to mind when I smelled this one.
Living in Southeast Texas in the Houston area, as Master Stout will tell you, we deal with a lot of heat and humidity. Every 4th of July my family loads up on fireworks to celebrate and we set off an arsenal of firecrackers in the evening. In the thick humid air, the smell from the smoke and gunpowder lingers, a smell I’ve come to know well over the years. Think of that smell when you’ve set off a firecracker, then add a hint of dampness to it attributed by thick humid air.
This is the smell that came to mind when I crammed my nose in the glass of this CV Merlot. Damp firecracker gunpowder. Based on my level of knowledge I have no idea if this is something that’s normal, a flaw, something indicative of terroir, winemaking technique, level of oak toast or otherwise.
On a side note, this wasn’t a smoke note that I could attribute to toasted oak since the dampness and gunpowder smell were most pronounced. Also, once I blurted this out, my friends and colleagues smelled again and confirmed the descriptor. Led by my observation? Maybe. But they all seemed to transport themselves to the 4th of July.
Any help you can give me on pinning down this smell and how I might calibrate it for future blind tastings is much appreciated. Thanks in advance for helping me sort this out.”
I’ll post an update once I hear back from the experts. If you have any ideas in the interim, please let me know.
Update: Here’s the feedback I received from GoS.
“I would tuck that descriptor into your arsenal and when you smell it – that’s your key to Washington State Merlot.
Every time I’ve had Washington State Merlot, I definitely get a smokiness – almost a smoked meat character reminiscent of Rhone-style wines. In my tasting groups, I’ve learned that this is indicative of the oak treatment. When you go for your Advanced and Masters when you have to verbally assess a wine, if you find damp firecracker gunpowder, say it. But I would follow it up with, ‘…indicating high toast oak treatment.’” Sept. 19, 2009 –Julie Dalton
“Washington Merlot is certainly known for using a good bit of oak, sometimes American. I’m guessing that’s what you are describing. Just make sure to not make judgments on blind wines based on one aromatic factor. Really study the entire wine and its structure. If you base your conclusions on single triggers you’re likely to hit a wall with your tasting.” Sept. 23, 2009 –Geoff Kruth
“I tend to get lemon custard in Washington State Bordeaux based reds. Have no idea why and I’ve asked around.
Also, truthfully, I’m not sure what you could call “classic” Columbia Valley Merlot. Its a HUGE AVA. Driving to all 4 corners would take 10+ hours on major roads. And it has very diverse climates – the heat of Red Mountain, coolness and altitude ot Rattlesnake Hills vs moderate climate of Walla Walla. I would even debate that Walla Walla doesnt have “typical” Merlot. Merlot from the south at 7 Hills is vastly different than Merlot in the Valley at Pepper Bridge.
I think I’ll agree with Geoff and say you are tasting barrel regiment on this one.” Oct. 1, 2009 –Greg Harrington
Great feedback and advice.